"I'm looking for this backglass. Do you have it?"

Okay. Got my graphics back after many days of back and forth work to ensure the clear background is done right. I eventually had to convert my pdf file to vectorized PS so they can edit in the clear background.

It turned out really good. $10 for 1/8” 24x26 plexiglass and about $40 including shipping on the vinyl front adhesive print.

www.bannerbuzz.com
Dang, that's fantastic.

I bet @Wildman07 would get a kick seeing his hand-drawn art converted in to the real thing!
 
Dang, that's fantastic.

I bet @Wildman07 would get a kick seeing his hand-drawn art converted in to the real thing!
I’m going to blackout the sections that need to be backlit from the bulbs and it as a second layer over the first one. Not sure how an overlay will adhere to the previous one but the art work should be easy to do using same image but blacked out where needed and transparent in sections where light shines through. That would add another $40 to costs.
 
$10 for 1/8” 24x26 plexiglass
One thing that just hit me, months later, is that I wonder if there are grades of plexiglass (and decals) that would stand up better to constant heat from the lamps.

On old glass backglasses, one of the common things to go wrong over time is that the lamp heat eventually dries out the decals and causes them to crumble away.

I'm not so much speaking to your project, but just thinking in general for people re-creating BG's like this. I guess one way to prevent this kind of thing would be to replace the BG lights with LED's, which would require some kind of adaptor board I assume.
 
One thing that just hit me, months later, is that I wonder if there are grades of plexiglass (and decals) that would stand up better to constant heat from the lamps.

On old glass backglasses, one of the common things to go wrong over time is that the lamp heat eventually dries out the decals and causes them to crumble away.

I'm not so much speaking to your project, but just thinking in general for people re-creating BG's like this. I guess one way to prevent this kind of thing would be to replace the BG lights with LED's, which would require some kind of adaptor board I assume.
I have not had any issues so far.
 
I'm not so much speaking to your project, but just thinking in general for people re-creating BG's like this. I guess one way to prevent this kind of thing would be to replace the BG lights with LED's, which would require some kind of adaptor board I assume.
Why would someone need an 'adapter board?
Modern pinball LEDs look just fine in a backglass, the light from the bulbs is diffused, so not 'hot-spots' that was common 10 years ago
 
I have not had any issues so far.
Nor would I expect you to.

Why would someone need an 'adapter board?
Modern pinball LEDs look just fine in a backglass, the light from the bulbs is diffused, so not 'hot-spots' that was common 10 years ago
Oh, duh.

So bulb voltages have always been the same as LED's?
 
Usually, regular lights run on 6.3 volts, pinball LEDs are made for this voltage. For an EM this is all you need to know

For a post-1990 game with fading lights, it gets a little more complicated
Games fade lights by rapidly turning them on and off rapidly. 10 times per second, 8 times per second, 6 times per second will result in dimming the lights. With an incandescent bulb, it takes a fraction of a second to reach its full glow, and it takes a fraction of a second to lose its glow. Our eyes cannot see this, so it looks like the bulb is dimming
(an old PacDude table can show this, his scripting had his bulbs fade in and out)
LEDs though are either ON or OFF, no warm up, no cool down. So to your eye, the LEDS produce a flickering effect. This can give some people headaches
You can install an aftermarket board that will detect that a bulb is supposed to be dimming, removes the turning on/off and just reduces the power to the LED, and thus dimming it. Much easier on the eyes
 
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