Gottlieb Hot Shot (Gottlieb, 1973) for restoration

[arctic]

OK, I recently picked up a Gottlieb Hot Shot to work on. I am quite taken by the 1970's EM's and own a working Spin Out and Sky Kings. I found this one in a guys basement and he said he would sell it for $175- This worked out well as I have been looking for a machine to get "into" to work on so I can learn the ropes of these EM machines. I have training as an Electronics Tech, but don't use it all that much. Anyway, this forum seems like a great place for advice! I am sure I will have many questions so let me start with the first few.

1. This machine turns on and has power, all the fuses are new and good. Once the start button is engaged the relays and scoring motor move- problem is four of the relays engage and do not let go. They just sit there energized, humming and heating up. I can manually dis-engage them and do a full reset, press the start relay again and the same thing happens. So, does this indicate a faulty coil? That would be easy enough to replace, or a potential problem elsewhere (like maybe another stuck relay I haven't located)?

2. The chime unit has been taken out of this one, should be simple enough to wire in a new one, any recommendations on parts suppliers?

I will just leave it at these two questions for now, any advice, ideas, links or resources would be much appreciated. The machine is in rough shape, I would like to get it fully functioning then work on the cosmetics. This one has seen a lot of use over the years.

Thanks,

Arctic

 

[faralos]

did you visit the IPDB yet?
try this for starters
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1247
unfortunately I don't see the manual there
but there is a list of owners who may be able to help you
And the score cards are there if you want them

 

[Tommycanyouhearme]

Hello Arctic, Oddly I recently purchased Hot Shot for the same price! pinrepair.com has tons of EM pinball repair information. The Pinball Resource has a lot of Gottleib parts that you can order online. I am not an expert but try cleaning the points on any relay that is not working and make sure they are open and closed whe they are supposed to be. If the fingers that go through the slots in the plastic are not in place it will prevent the relay from working. You can usually tell if they are not in the right place by the gap being way to open. You can remove the relay from the bank of relays by pulling the little cotta pin out of the back of the relay and make it a lot easier to clean inspect and work on. Good luck, Tom

 

[Coil_Smoke]

In The Begining

[FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][SIZE=+1]I also recommend that site.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][SIZE=+1]http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#top[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1][SIZE=+1]

The first thing I read about EM repairs was this game saving info regarding cleaning contacts and lubrication...C_S

1f. Getting Started: Lubrication
(Why Contact Cleaner & WD-40 are BAD.)[/SIZE]

• Lubrication in EM Games.
  Electro-Mechanical machines, for the most part, do not use any lubrication. Most parts run "dry." Far more damage can be done to a machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! Throw that WD-40 away, it won't be needed here (besides, WD-40 is very flammable, and with EM switch arcs, it could start the game on fire!)
  As a general rule, keep this in mind for EM moving parts: Metal to metal lube is OK. nylon to metal NO lube. Nylon to nylon NO lube. And NEVER EVER lubricate the moving metal plungers inside coils (even if the metal plunger is moving inside a metal coil sleeve). Also NEVER lubricate the gears of the score motor.
  In regards to nylon, all reference I find from professional plastics companies speak of nylon as "no lubrication required." In fact they mention how nylon can be worn by various greases that collect dust and act as an abrasive paste. There is also a concern about nylon expanding when it it lubricated. This is just more evidence that you should not lubricate any nylon parts.
  Generally the only parts that will require any lubrication are stepper moving "fingers" and some other metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't very many in an EM game. So keep that lubrication in the tool box and away from the game. I tend to only use lubrication on stepper units and not much more than that. I used them on some 1950s score reels too (metal to metal) such as the pivot points for rotating arms.
  When there is a need to lube an EM game, using the right lubricant is very important. Do not use white grease. Do not use WD-40. White grease solidifies and WD-40 gums up in a short amount of time. Do not use silicone-based lubricants either.
  The only lubricant needed is Teflon based lube, or simple #10 oil, or Williams CoinOp Lube. Personally I like the Teflon Lube Gel. It's available from precisionreloading.com/superlube.htm and pinrestore.com as "Super Lube". Get the 3oz gel tube. This stuff is the best EM lubricant and the only EM lubricant you will need.
  Contact Cleaner & WD-40 are BAD for EM Games.
  WARNING: DO NOT USE CONTACT CLEANER OR WD-40 IN EM GAMES!
  Sometimes first-timers will use contact cleaner on the switch contacts of an EM game (somehow they think a chemical will solve a mechanical problem!) DO NOT SPRAY EM GAMES *ANYWHERE* WITH CONTACT CLEANER! Spraying switch contacts with contact cleaner or WD-40 does some really bad things, AND IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. It is also guaranteed to make the game fail and not work as time progresses.
  Contact cleaner is made for LOW VOLTAGE situations. Low voltage means +5 volts. EM games are HIGH VOLTAGE. Contact cleaner is *not* designed for high voltage, and does *nothing* to fix or clean a high voltage switch! Contact cleaner was designed for gold or tin low voltage (+5 volts) switch contacts, not the silver or tungsten high voltage contacts used in EM games. Again don't try and use a chemical to solve a mechanical problem.
  Also contact cleaner and WD-40 are *extremely* flammable. I have seen people spray it in a game, turn the game on, and the game burst into flames! Because of the high voltage and the switch arc, the contact cleaner explodes into a ball of fire. Typically this will start the cotton cloth wire insulators on fire too, rendering the game unrepairable. (After the fire is put out!) All that is left is bare wire with no insulation.
  Often the over usage of these spray materials get into the bakelite switch spacers, the wire insulation, and the plywood around the switches (the bakelite switch spacers can shrink with contact cleaner, changing the gapping of the switches too.) This provides a constant source of the spray product, and causes even more problems down the road. After the user thinks it's all clear to turn the game on, BOMB it bursts into flame (again!)

<table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>[FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1] Contact cleaner lights up BIG with only a spark!
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<table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>[FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1] The Coin unit on the bottom panel of an EM Gottlieb that was sprayed with
contact cleaner. The game started a fire, burning all the wiring and the Coin unit
itself! This is just ONE reason why you don't want to use contact cleaner.
If this is going to be fixed, ALL the burnt cloth-covered wire in this area will
need to be replaced. Also the bakelite plates on the Coin unit will also probably
need to be replaced too, because they will be very brittle.
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• [FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1] Also, contact cleaner in the presence of an electrical arc (which is seen on all high voltage EM switch contacts), causes a chemical reaction. This reaction produces phosgene gas ([/SIZE][/FONT]<tt>COCl₂</tt>[FONT=verdana,arial,helv,helvetica][SIZE=-1]) and free chlorine. The free chlorine attacks the silver EM switch contacts and makes silver chloride (an insulator). The game now has this white, insulating material on the switch contacts! Once this happens, the switches will not work. It's like putting a piece of tape between the switch contacts. Silver chloride (an insulator) is completely different than silver oxide, which is a conductor. Silver oxide is the black dust normally seen on switch contacts (the black dust is not necessarily a bad thing).
  There is no reason to use a chemical for a mechanical problem. Dirty and mis-adjusted switches is a mechanical issue. Don't solve this type of problem with a chemical.
  If you insist of having to "clean" out your game, the best I can offer you is to do it this way: Take the entire bottom panel out of the game, and bring it outside. Stand it on end and use some compressed air to blow off the dirt and crud. That's as far as you should go when "spraying" the switch contacts on a game. I know a guy that takes each part off the bottom panel and puts it in an electrosonic cleaner. That works too, but it's a lot of work, and it's certainly not worth all the trouble in my eye.
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[pinballdaveh]

gr8 advice about contact cleaner. taking out the inside mech. panel makes it so much easier to work on the relays and step units too.